Amigurumi Train Thomas Free Crochet Pattern

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THOMAS (Thomas & Friends) FREE PATTERN

Materials:

Himalaya Dolphin Baby (abbrev. HDB):

– blue no 327 – 5 skeins (the main yarn)

– light grey no 325 – 2 skeins (for the head and rectangular base)

– red no 318 – 2 skeins (for the rectangular base and train details)

– black no 311 – 2 skeins (for the body, neck, chimney, roof, wheels and details)

– dark grey no 320 – 1 skein (for the frame and wheel connectors)

– white no 301 – small amount (for the light)

– light blue no 306 – small amount (for the light)

Alize Softy:

– black no 60 – 1 skein (for the train details: windows etc.)

– yellow no 216 – 1 skein (for the train details: windows edge and number 1)

Yarn Art Jeans (abbrev. YAJ):

– white and black – small amount (for the eye & pupil)

Crochet hook:

– 4.5 mm – for Himalaya Dolphin Baby and Alize Softy

– 9 mm for the red rectangular base (2 strands of HDB)

– 2 mm – for the eyes (YAJ)

Additional materials:

– PVC pipe: 3 pieces of 8 cm long, 12 mm in diameter; 1 piece of 41 cm long, 2 cm in diameter.

– tapestry needle

– markers (or piece of yarn to sketch some details)

– stuffing

– scissors

The size of finished toy:

– 50 cm / 19.68″ long

– 35 cm / 13.7″ tall (without chimneys)

– 46 cm / 18.1″ tall (with chimneys)

ABBREVIATIONS:

• st = stitch

• sl st = slip stitch

• ch = chain

• tch = turning chain (at the end of a row)

• sc = single crochet

• inc = increase (2 sc in one st)

• dec = decrease (sc2tog)

• (..) = repeat the pattern particular number of times

• [..] = complete number of st in the round / row

• rnd = round

• BLO = back loop only

• FLO = front loop only

• FPSC = front post single crochet

• color – change the color of yarn (before you crochet the next stitches)

Firstly I tried to work out the technic details of the project, how to crochet particular parts of the train.

I started from the head – light grey Himalaya Dolphin Baby, crochet hook 4.5 mm.

Then I changed to black and then I crocheted sequence of red and blue stripes. I’ve got cylindrical shape and had stuffed the part before I closed the opening.

FACE / HEAD & BODY

Start with Himalaya Dolphin Baby: light grey, crochet hook 4.5 mm

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR [6]

Rnd 2: 6 inc [12]

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 [18]

Rnd 4: 18 sc [18]

Rnd 5: (1 sc, inc, 1 sc) x 6 [24]

Rnd 6: (3 sc, inc) x 6 [30]

Rnd 7: (2 sc, inc, 2 sc) x 6 [36]

Rnd 8: (5 sc, inc) x 6 [42]

Rnd 9: (3 sc, inc, 3 sc) x 6 [48]

Rnd 10: (7 sc, inc) x 6 [54]

Rnd 11: (4 sc, inc, 4 sc) x 6 [60]

Rnd 12: (9 sc, inc) x 6 [66]

Rnd 13: (5 sc, inc, 5 sc) x 6 [72]

Rnd 14-15: 72 sc [72]

Change to black (I start to count from round 1 again):

Rnd 1-8: 72 sc [72]

Now repeat the red-blue stripes and change the color in the middle of the round.

Change to blue:

Rnd 1: blue 18 sc, red 36 sc, blue 18 sc [72]

Rnd 2-4: blue 72 sc [72]

Repeat rnds 1-4 six times (to get 6 red stripes).

(rnds 5-8, 9-12, 13-16, 17-20, 21-24)

Rnd 25: BLO 72 sc [72]

(later in FLO you will sew the B-3 part – see section “THE BACK PART”)

Add stuffing.

Now decrease until you close the opening.

Rnd 26: (5 sc, dec, 5 sc) x 6 [66]

Rnd 27: (9 sc, dec) x 6 [60]

Rnd 28: (4 sc, dec, 4 sc) x 6 [54]

Add stuffing.

Rnd 29: (7 sc, dec) x 6 [48]

Rnd 30: (3 sc, dec, 3 sc) x 6 [42]

Rnd 31: (5 sc, dec) x 6 [36]

Rnd 32: (2 sc, dec, 2 sc) x 6 [30]

Rnd 33: (3 sc, dec) x 6 [24]

Add stuffing before you close the opening.

Rnd 34: (1 sc, dec, 1 sc) x 6 [18]

Rnd 35: (1 sc, dec) x 6 [12]

Rnd 36: 6 dec [6]

Fasten off, hide loose ends.

You get cylindrical shape.

Mark the points on the bottom of head to crochet the train’s “neck”. Divide the face horizontally in half (in the PHOTO there is a light pink yarn) and count 10 sc from the edge points of the red stripes (it is the neck boundary).

Mark the centre point to check if the neck is symmetrically placed.

NECK

Himalaya Dolphin Baby: black, crochet hook 4.5 mm

In the first round of the neck crochet FPSC inserting the hook in the bottom of the head.

Start from the bottom right corner (X on the photo below) – this is the start point (one of the points you marked in the bottom of head to crochet the neck (the neck boundary).

Rnd 1: FPSC: 14 sc, 7 sc, 14 sc, 7 sc [42]

Rnds 2-6: 42 sc [42]

Now don’t cut the yarn and crochet the neck base to close the rectangle – work in rows: 14 sc in BLO, 1 tch, turn. Crochet 7 rows. You get the rectangle: 7 rows x 14 sc. Join rectangle with each side of the neck (join with slip stitches).

The neck base is crocheted along the one (longer) side of the neck.

Join the base with the neck edges. Look at the scheme below:

7 sl sts + 14 sl sts + stuff before you close the opening + 7 sl sts (close the opening).

1,2,3 – crocheting the slip stitch;

4 – the first side is finished (7 sl sts);

5 – the 2nd side is finished (14 sl sts);

6 – stuff firmly before you close the third side (7 sl sts)

Semicircle part (make 2)

 Semicircle:

 Himalaya Dolphin Baby: blue, crochet hook 4.5 mm

Rnd 1: 4 sc in MR [4]

Rnd 2: 4 inc [8]

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 4 [12]

Rnd 4: (1 sc, inc, 1 sc) x 4 [16]

Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x 4 [20]

Rnd 6: (2 sc, inc, 2 sc) x 4 [24]

Rnd 7: (5 sc, inc) x 4 [28]

Rnd 8: (3 sc, inc, 3 sc) x 4 [32]

Rectangle:

Work in rows, in the end of every row crochet 1 tch and turn the work.

Row 1: ch 33, insert the hook in 2nd st from hook and work 32 sc [32]

Rows 2-5: 32 sc [32]

Don’t cut the yarn, you will join the rectangle with the first semicircle.

Then join with the second one.

Semicircles and rectangle.

Joining rectangle with the first semicircle.

The right side.

The wrong side.

Joining rectangle with the second semicircle.

Two semicircles are joined with the rectangle. Only the base left to do.

Top view.

The base:

Work in rows, in the end of every row crochet 1 tch and turn the work.

Row 1: ch 18, insert the hook in 2nd st from the hook and work 17 sc [17]

Rows 2-5: 17 sc [17]

Crochet the second part and sew the both parts on the opposite sides of the neck.

Sewing the base.

Sewing the semicircles on the opposite sides of the neck.

In part 1 we crocheted the head and body, neck and semicircle parts.

In part 2 we will continue crocheting the Thomas:

– the L-shape parts

– the back parts

– the grey and red rectangular base

– the eyes and sculpting the face.

A-1 (the right side)

Count 6 sts up from the bottom sc of the red stripe (see: white pins at the photo).

Start from rnd 24 of the blue body (this is BLO round; red pin at the photo below) and insert the hook under the sts of the body.

Row 1: 24 FPSC, 1 tch, turn [24]

Rows 2-5: 24 sc, 1 tch, turn [24]

A-1 (the left side)

Start from the round where you crocheted the first red stripe (after the last round of the black part) and work in the same way as for the right side.

A-2

Row 1: 10 FPSC, 1 tch, turn [10]

Rows 2-5: 10 sc, 1 tch, turn [10]

Crocheting the first row of A-2 on the left side of the train.

A-2 on the right side of the train.

A-3

Row 1: 12 FPSC, 1 tch, turn [12]

Rows 2-5: 12 sc, 1 tch, turn [12]

A-3 on the right side of the train.

A-4

Row 1: ch 16, insert the hook in 2nd chain from the hook and work 15 sc [15]

Rows 2-12: 15 sc, 1 tch, turn [15]

Row 13: BLO 15 sc, 1 tch, turn [15]

Rows 14-17: 15 sc, 1 tch, turn [15]

A-4 for the right side of the train.

Sew the top side of A-4 to the cylindrical shape (without the bend that appear after you crochet in BLO). The bend and lower part shoud be loose.

Join the adjacent edges of A-1, A-2, A-3 and A-4 with sl sts:

The right side of the train with edges joined. Then you will sew the L-shape

A-5 (L-shape)

Row 1: ch 11, insert the hook in 2nd chain from the hook and work 10 sc [10]

Rows 2-11: 10 sc, 1 tch, turn [10]

Row 12: 10 sc, ch 16 [25]

Row 13: insert the hook in 2nd chain from the hook and work 25 sc, 1 tch, turn [25]

Rows 14-42: 25 sc, 1 tch, turn [25]

I marked with the white yarn the lines and later I will crochet the red lines (this was just the sketch that changed while working on the project).

Join the L-shape with edges

The right side of the train.         

A-6 (the bottom rectangle for L-shape)

Row 1: ch 13, insert the hook in 2nd chain from the hook and work 12 sc [12]

Rows 2-5: 12 sc, 1 tch, turn [12]

Bottom view. On the left there is a black rectangle of the neck, then the wider rectangle of the semicircle, then the rectangle of L-shape (A-6) and finally a big rectangle of the back (B-2).

THE BACK PART

Now crochet the back part.

B-1 (on the photo below it is marked as a red rectangle)

In the end of every row crochet 1 tch and turn the work.

Row 1: ch 16, insert the hook in 2nd chain from the hook and work 15 sc [15]

Rows 2-20: 15 sc [15]

Side edges are joined with sl sts to the A-4 edge.

B-2 (the bottom part)

In the end of every row crochet 1 tch and turn the work.

Row 1: ch 19, insert the hook in 2nd chain from the hook and work 18 sc [18]

Rows 2-30: 18sc [18]

B-3 (the back vertical part)

In the end of every row crochet 1 tch and turn the work.

Row 1: ch 31, insert the hook in 2nd chain from the hook and work 30 sc [30]

Rows 2-12: 30 sc [30]

Row 13: dec, 26 sc, dec [28]

Row 14: dec, 24 sc, dec [26]

Sew the part in FLO (rnd 25 of the body) – dashed yellow arch on the photo below:

B-4 (the sides)

Crochet the first row, inserting the hook in the upper edge of L-shape (x in the photo below).

Start from the right side (adjacent to B-3 edge).

In the end of every row crochet 1 tch and turn the work.

Rows 1-10: 18 sc [18]

Rows 11-12: 14 sc [14]

The right side of the train.

 Crochet the same part for the left side of the train but start from the inside:

This is the back view. Add stuffing inside the L-shape part. You see the yellow and purple markers to join the edges of B-3 and B-4 (the left and the right part).

Join the edges with sl sts:

Join the edges of B-3 and B-4 (the right side).

Join the edges of B-3 and B-4 (the left side).

The edges of B-3 and B-4 (the left side) are joined.

B-5 (the back)

In the end of every row crochet 1 tch and turn the work.

In this part you will crochet BLO in row 36 and row 40 to create the bend.

Row 1: ch 31, insert the hook in 2nd chain from the hook and work 30 sc [30]

Rows 2-35: 30 sc [30]

Row 36 (horizontal part): BLO 30 sc [28]

Rows 37-39 (horizontal part): 30 sc [30]

Row 40 (vertical part): BLO 30 sc [30]

Row 41 (vertical part): 30 sc [30]

Row 42: dec, 26 sc, dec [28]

Row 43: dec, 24 sc, dec [26]

Crochet sl sts at the back in the row 36 to stiffen the bend.

Crochet sl sts from the inside in row 40 to stiffen the bend.

You get the train without the wheels. Stuff the train.

Then crochet the roof.

The black roof (upper part)

In the end of every row crochet 1 tch and turn the work.

Row 1: ch 15, insert the hook in 2nd chain from the hook and work 14 sc [14]

Rows 2-30: 14 sc [14]

Join the sides with single crochets, not slip stitches. Add stuffing before you close the upper part (then you will have no possibility to add more stuffing).

THE RED LINES

I had to adjust the lines to the size of the windows, so I changed the placement of the lines. I crocheted sl sts inserting the hook in the stitches of the L-shape.

GREY BASE

Himalaya Dolphin Baby: light grey, crochet hook 4.5 mm

Start with ch 33 (the width of the train), insert the hook in 2nd st from the hook and work:

Rows 1-60: 32 sc, 1 tch [32]

The size of the grey base = 21 x 43 cm

Sew the train to the grey base as shown in the photo below (the base is aligned to the back of the train):

RED BASE

Himalaya Dolphin Baby: red (two strands), crochet hook 9 mm

(You may crochet the base similar to the light grey base with crochet hook 4.5 mm, but add more rows to get the bend parts in the front and at the back).

Start with ch 18 (the width of the train), insert the hook in 2nd st from the hook and work:

Rows 1-42: 17 sc, 1 tch [17]

The size of the red base = 21 x 49 cm

The size of the red base without the bends is the same as for the light grey base – bends are additional, so adjust their size to your train.

Stiffen the bend with sl sts for the front part (count approx. 4 rows for the front bend).

Stiffen the bend with sl sts for the back part (count approx. 2 rows for the back bend).

The bottom part – you will sew the wheels to that part.

The top part with sl sts.

You will use the red base in part 3 of the pattern and sew the wheels to the base.

The train is standing on the grey base, so now you may sculpt the face and add the eyes (if you want to you may do it in the end of the work to be sure that they are sewed in proper place).

FACE SCULPTING (the eye sockets and the nose)

I shape the face with Himalaya Dolphin Baby, light grey

Before shaping the nose I marked the nose and cheeks with other yarn. I added pins (the photo below).

Follow the instruction below (the numbers are given on the photo above). If you start from the same point, insert the needle one stitch away.

Don’t be in a hurry – if you are not sure the final effect, try to shape the face with other contrasting yarn (to remove it later) and then try to repeat the same with invisible yarn or strong thread.

(2-1, 1-2) x two times

EYE (make 2)

Pupil (make 2)

YarnArt Jeans, black, crochet hook 2 mm.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR [6]

Rnd 2: 6 inc [12]

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 [18]

 Before crocheting the white I cut it from paper to check the proportion.

White (make 2)

YarnArt Jeans, white, crochet hook 2 mm.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR [6]

Rnd 2: 6 inc [12]

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 [18]

Rnd 4: (1 sc, inc, 1 sc) x 6 [24]

Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6 [30]

Rnd 6: (2 sc, inc, 2 sc) x 6 [36]

Rnd 7: (5 sc, inc) x 6 [42]

Cut the yarn, leaving a tail for sewing (I do invisible finish, instead of slip stitch in the end).

SMILE / LIPS

Lower lip is between rnds 7-8. I insert the hook in row 1 under the stitches of the face (FPSC). I crochet the lips keeping the Thomas’ face upside down.

Row 1: 12 FPSC, sl st, turn (no turning chain) [12]

Row 2: sl st, 10 sc, sl st [12]

Upper lip is between rnds 6-7.

Row 1: 8 FPSC [8]

Upper lips (view upside down)

Embroider the smile with the white HDB between the lips.

Additionally I shaped the lips, embroidered them with HDB, inserting the needle vertically.

Train without the wheels is made. In next part I will show you how to crochet:

– wheels

– frame for the wheels

– details (windows, chimneys, light, stairs, number 1)

 The train will be ready soon 🙂

WHEELS (make 6)  

Himalaya Dolphin Baby: black, crochet hook 4.5 mm

Wheels are crocheted tight and stuffed firmly.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR [6]

Rnd 2: 6 inc [12]

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 [18]

Rnd 4: (1 sc, inc, 1 sc) x 6 [24]

Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6 [30]

Rnd 6: (2 sc, inc, 2 sc) x 6 [36]

Rnd 7: (5 sc, inc) x 6 [42]

Rnd 8: (3 sc, inc, 3 sc) x 6 [48]

Rnd 9: (7 sc, inc) x 6 [54]

Rnd 10: (7 sc, dec) x 6 [48]

Rnd 11: (3 sc, dec, 3 sc) x 6 [42]

Rnd 12: (5 sc, dec) x 6 [36]

Rnd 13: (2 sc, dec, 2 sc) x 6 [30]

Rnd 14: (3 sc, dec) x 6 [24]

Add stuffing before you close the opening.

Rnd 15: (1 sc, dec, 1 sc) x 6 [18]

Rnd 16: (1 sc, dec) x 6 [12]

Rnd 17: 6 dec [6]

Fasten off, hide loose ends.

The centre of the wheel: blue circle + star lines

1. Insert the hook in rnd 7 and crochet sl sts around.

2. Cut long yarn tail and embroider the star lines (the centre is in the MR).

3. Go to the centre of the wheel and embroider woven wheel stitch (see: the tutorial about four leaf clover).

Place the wheels on the red base, check if they are placed right and finally sew them.

Grey frame for the train

Himalaya Dolphin Baby: dark grey, crochet hook 4.5 mm

Firstly I made 3 dark grey stripes to join the opposite wheels…

…but then I realized it is not quite good idea (stripes were too flexible and I needed something to stiffen them).

To stiffen the base I came up with an idea of making the frame with PVC pipe (two types of diameter):

1. thinner (x 3) for joining the opposite wheels (8 cm long, 12 mm in diameter) and I crochet the tube for the pipe:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR [6]

Rnd 2-13: 6 sc [6]

Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing crochet tube to the wheels.

2. thicker for the train length (41 cm long, 2 cm in diameter).

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR [6]

Rnd 2: 6 inc [12]

Rnd 3-55: 12 sc [12]

 Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing crochet tube.

Grey connectors for the wheels (make 4)

Himalaya Dolphin Baby: dark grey, crochet hook 4.5 mm

Work in rows: 1 tch and turn in the end of each row.

Row 1: ch 3, insert the hook in 2nd st from the hook and work 2 sc [2]

Rows 2-20: 2 sc [2]

Finally crochet the blue screws: 3 sc in MR and fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

Sew the screws to the connectors.

Join the red and light grey base with sl sts. Join with the red HDB yarn.

Additional parts:

– chimneys

– windows

– white light

– number 1

Blue chimney

Himalaya Dolphin Baby, blue, crochet hook 4.5 mm

Rnd 1: 5 sc in MR [5]

Rnd 2: 5 inc [10]

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 5 [15]

Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 5 [20]

Rnds 5-12: 20 sc [20]

Rnd 13: BLO (2 sc, dec) x 5 [15]

Rnd 14: (1 sc, dec) x 5 [10]

Rnd 15: 5 dec [5]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Black chimney

Himalaya Dolphin Baby, black, crochet hook 4.5 mm

Rnd 1: 5 sc in MR [5]

Rnd 2: 5 inc [10]

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 5 [15]

Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 5 [20]

Rnd 5: BLO 20 sc [20]

Rnd 6: (8 sc, dec) x 2 [18]

Rnds 7-16: 18 sc [18]

Rnd 17: (2 sc, inc) x 6 [24]

Rnd 18: (2 sc, dec) x 6 [18]

Rnd 19: BLO 18 sc [18]

Rnd 20: (1 sc, dec) x 6 [12]

Rnd 21: 6 dec [6]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Insert the tapestry needle in the centre of the last rnd and pull to make the hollow

Black circle (make 2)

Himalaya Dolphin Baby or Alize Softy: black, crochet hook 4.5 mm

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR [6]

Rnd 2: 6 inc [12]

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 [18]

Black circle with the yellow edging (make 2)

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR [6]

Rnd 2: 6 inc [12]

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 [18]

Change to yellow Alize Softy:

Rnd 4: 18 sc around [18]

Black wider rectangle with the yellow edging (make 2 on the opposite sides)

Before I started crocheting the part, I had pinned the paper parts to determine the size and proportions. On the photo you see also the grey circle with the yellow edging (I changed it later to the black circle which is better in my opinion)

 Alize Softy: black, crochet hook 4.5 mm

Work in rows: 1 tch and turn in the end of each row.

Row 1: ch 7, insert the hook in 2nd st from the hook and work 6 sc [6]

Rows 2-8: 6 sc [6]

Change to yellow Alize Softy and work single crochets around the edge (ch 1 in each corner).

In the middle of the bottom part change to black (4 sc).

Black narrow rectangle with the yellow edging (make 2 on the opposite sides)

Alize Softy: black, crochet hook 4.5 mm

Work in rows: 1 tch and turn in the end of each row.

Row 1: ch 7, insert the hook in 2nd st from the hook and work 6 sc [6]

Rows 2: 6 sc [6]

Change to yellow Alize Softy and work single crochets around the edge (ch 1 in each corner).

NUMBER 1

Alize Softy, yellow, crochet hook 4.5 mm

Row 1: ch 5, insert the hook in 2nd st from the hook and work 4 sc [4]

Rows 2-8: 4 sc [4]

Row 9: 4 sc, ch 4

Row 10: insert the hook in 2nd st from the hook and work 7 sc [7]

Row 11: 5 sc, dec, turn (no turning chain) [6]

Row 12: dec, 4 sc, 1 tch, turn [5]

Row 13: 3 sc, dec [4]

Fasten off, cut the yarn, leaving a tail for sewing.

WHITE LIGHT

Himalaya Dolphin Baby, small amount of white and light blue, crochet hook 4.5 mm.

Start with light blue.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR [6]

Rnd 2: 6 inc [12]

Cut the yarn, do invisible finish.

Change to white.

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 [18]

Rnd 4: 18 sc [18]

Add stuffing before you close the opening.

Rnd 5: (1 sc, dec) x 6 [12]

Rnd 6: 6 dec [6]

Fasten off.

To make the base, insert the hook in the bottom of the light and crochet FPSC around (photo on the right).

BLACK FRONT PART (make 2)

Work in rows, 1 tch in the end of every row.

Row 1: ch 15, insert the hook in 2nd st from the hook and work 14 sc [14]

Row 2: 14 sc [14]

Row 3: 8 sc [8]

Row 4: dec, 6 sc [7]

Row 5: 7 sc [7]

Row 6: dec, 5 sc [6]

Sew the parts in the front part of the train, as on the photo below.

STAIRS (make 2)

Work in rows, 1 tch in the end of every row.

Row 1: ch 5, insert the hook in 2nd st from the hook and work 4 sc [4]

Row 2: 4 sc [4]

Row 3: BLO 4 sc [4] (BLO indicates the folding at 90 degrees).

Row 4: 4 sc [4]

Crochet the 2nd stairs step in the same way and then sew two steps as shown in the phoot below (lower step is sewed to the folding of the upper one).

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